Kulinarično raziskovanje doline Soče
(Click here to read this article in English)
Ko prvič pristaneš v dolini Soče, te zadene! Najprej opaziš slikovite vrhove Alp, prevelike, da bi se skrili. Nato valovite zelene planote, kjer se temni odtenki smrek prelivajo z živo zelenimi listavci. Vse izgleda bujno, namočeno in zeleno. Spodaj po dolini tečejo nemirne reke. Vsaka s svojim karakterjem, bistre in mladostniške, dopolnjujejo tisto glavno, najbolj turkizno med njimi – Sočo. Dan imaš do vrha napolnjen z aktivnostmi, a kar naenkrat se iz globočin tvojega trebuha zasliši zategnjen jazzovski spev – hhhrrraaannnaaa. Brez skrbi v tem blogu zavihamo rokave in te odpeljemo med lokalne poslastice. Katere so domače specialitete, kakšna je njihova zgodba ter seveda, kje okusiti najboljše? Odgovore ti serviramo počasi, v dobri družbi in z zabeljenimi pridevniki.
Trajnost ni le modna beseda v dolini Soče
Da bi razumel/a posoško kulinarično zgodbo, si kar takoj zategni šohe in šibni v planine, kjer je zrak prepojen z vonjem po zemlji, gozdu, pokošenih travnikih, mleku, skuti in siru. Posoška kuharska knjiga lokalnih receptov se je že od nekdaj pisala po diktatu čudovito divje, a izjemno srborite narave. Poleg zahtevnega naravnega terena pa je bilo na tem koščku zemlje še nenehno napeto! Vojne, trki kultur, premetavanje meja sem in tja je okrepilo bojevit in samosvoj karakter domačinov ter pošteno obarvalo lokalno kuhinjo.
Skrivnosti domačih kuhinj
Kapo dol in priklon z nosom do tal. Komu? Nonam, prisrčnim starim ženam v pisanih predpasnikih, ki s svojimi prsti iz skromnih sestavin pričarajo slastne jedi. Frika, hrustljava alpska pica iz krompirja in sira Tolminca, pa fermentirana skuta, ki pikne in mmm, tisti še topli štruklji, ki se kar stopijo v ustih. Domače, pošteno, toplo in srčno – objem stare mame, ki pomiri še tako zagrenjeno dušo.
Stari recepti so se šepetali dalje vse do danes, ko vsaka hiša še vedno s posebno občutljivostjo ohranja in varuje svoje kuhinjske skrivnosti. Ponos in iskrivo receptarsko tekmovanje ohranjata kulinarično tradicijo v dolini živo! Nekoč pastirske jedi danes postrežejo skoraj v vsaki restavraciji, oštariji, na turističnih kmetijah, v gorskih kočah in na festivalih. Naš nasvet? Pridite lačni.
V dolini Soče ima vsaka krava svoje ime
Sir je srce posoške prehrane. A kot pravi Anka Lipušček Miklavič, kmetica in nekdanja direktorica lokalne mlekarne Planika, se mlečna pot kolute sira začne pri kravjem gobcu. V dolini Soče dominirajo rjave krave, ki so bolj trpežne, hribovske sorte. Spomladi rjave cike skupaj s pastirji odromajo na svoj poletni oddih v tolminske planine. Povzpnejo se vse do 1400 m visoko, kjer je zrak redkejši in arome močnejše. Tam več mesecev prečesavajo neokrnjene gorske travnike, daleč stran od dolinskega vrveža in zadovoljno mulijo svežo pomladno travo, posuto s cvetlicami in začinjeno z zelišči. Tako kot narava in ljudje, imajo tudi živali v Posočju svojevrstno osebnost in celo lastno ime. Preživi dan v krasni družbi Cik, Šek, Pik s pogledom na okoliške gore in koščkom sira v ustih na ekološkem posestvu Bogata v Bovcu.
Cin, cin, cin Drežnica, kje so kozice?
S tolminskih hribov proti bovškim goram se krave prelijejo v koze in ovce. Pod stenami Krna leži pravljična gorska vasica Drežnica s svojimi kozicami. Te pokončne, temperamentne, celo malce žleht koze so edina prava slovenska avtohtona pasma in so že na prvi pogled bolj divje od klasičnih koz. So gorsko aklimatizirane, trdožive, imajo dolge kljukaste rogove, košat kožuh, izzivajoč pogled in dramatično zgodbo.
Drežniška koza je bila namreč trn v peti različnim političnim sistemom. Tako je bil npr. v času Jugoslavije izdan odlok, v katerem je oblast zahtevala odstrel drežniških koz, saj naj bi te požrešnice povzročale škodo v gozdovih. Da bi jih rešili pred kruto usodo, so Drežničani vse svoje koze stlačili v vaško cerkev (Roš, 2020 str. 125). Ostalo jih je zgolj okoli 600 in 40 izmed njih jih veselo poskakuje v Bergičevi čredi. Na Berginčevi kmetiji lahko poskusiš mlad ali zorjen kozji sir, kozji jogurt in skuto. Kobariškega dela doline preprosto ne gre zapustiti brez lokalne sladice – kobariških štrukljev.
Ovce, gobe, postrvi in krafi na enem placu
Na poti v Bovec glavna zvezda živinoreje postane avtohtona bovška ovca oz. “wca z bca”. Pikanten priokus ovčje skute je najboljši v kombinaciji s kuhanim mladim krompirjem. Čompe an skuta – izjemno preprosta pastirska jed je bovški kult, kateremu je posvečen celo festival Čomparska noč. Če želiš okusiti Bovec kar v Bovcu, stopi v vrsto pred malo leseno hiško na placu.
V Bovški Kuhnci kuhata oče Bojan in hči Ana. Postrežeta ti z Alpami, reko, pašniki in divjimi sadovi bovških gozdov. Frika z ovčjim sirom, gobova enolončnica, postrvi iz okoliških rek, čompe s skuto, jagnjetina …
Vse iz lokalnih sestavin in po receptu tradicije. Za sladico pa buške krafe, s tepko polnjene žepke, ki jih najbolj sladke pripravi Paula, duhovita Paulačinkarca s sosedne stojnice.
Moderni tvisti lokalnih sestavin
Čas teče dalje. Od večerij z Michelinovimi zvezdicami okronani Hiši Franko, v kateri kuha svetovno znana kuharska mojstrica, Ana Roš, gorskih koč in turističnih kmetij, pa vse do simpatičnih, ambienta polnih oštarij – danes je v Posočju ponudba pestra. A zate imamo še eno slastno presenečenje. V Logu pod Mangartom se ob cesti, pod stenami mogočega Mangarta in Jalovca, skriva stara, nostalgična Brunarica. Tukaj delujejo lokalno in razmišljajo globalno. Slovenija namreč ni ravno država znana po BBQ-ju. Že, že – imamo žar in obstajajo posebni roštilj talenti, ki s ponosom in strastjo prevzamejo odgovornost obračanja čevapčičev in pleskavic na vseh družinskih piknikih. A da bi meso začeli dušiti v zgodnjih jutranjih urah in ga postregli zvečer – to ni v našem DNK-ju.
Modernizirana romanca žara in neizogibno druženje, ki ji pripada, je z Brunarico postala del Posočja. Robin Hill s svojo ekipo ti sproščeno, kot se za žar spodobi, postreže s počasi dimljenim lokalnim mesom, lokalno obarvanimi solatami, burgerji in domačimi sladicami. V tej majhni kuhinji so lokalne sestavine trčile v moderni svet. Hiška, ozračje in menu – vse zveni in izgleda skrajno enostavno. Temu primerna so tudi pričakovanja, a ko dobiš krožnik pred nos, osupneš! Prezentacija – popolna. Okus – neverjeten. Pa brez skrbi, ni vse meso, kar se dimi – v Brunarici pripravljajo tudi okusne vegetarijanske in veganske opcije.
Na tej točki moramo odložiti pribor, saj bi lahko rožljali v nedogled. To je zgolj nekaj drobtinic, ravno prav, da te spremenijo v kulinaričnega radovedneža na potepu po dolini Soče.
See you in Slovenia!
Pustolovsko, wellness in kulturno obarvano popotovanje po Sloveniji je edinstveno prav zaradi svoje uravnoteženosti. Pridružite se nam na nepozabnem AdZENture Retreatu v dolini Soče. Spoznajte Slovenijo in dolino Soče skozi nepozabne in pristne dogodivščine!
Foodie Frenzy in Slovenia
(Click here to read this article in Slovene)
Exploring the tasty side of the Soča valley
Visiting the Soča Valley for the first time is mesmerizing! First, you notice the picturesque alpine peaks, too big to hide. Then undulating, green plateaus, where the dark shades of the spruce merge with vivid linden leaves. Everything looks lush, soaked and green. Wild rivers flow down the valley, with the most turquoise among them – the Soča river. Your day is filled to the brim with adventures and activities, but suddenly a strained jazz chant is heard from the depths of your stomach – foooood. This time, we are taking you on a local treat. What are the region’s specialities, what is the story behind them, and where best to taste them? Answers will be served slowly, in good company and with mouthwatering adjectives.Visiting the Soča Valley for the first time is mesmerizing! First, you notice the picturesque alpine peaks, too big to hide. Then undulating, green plateaus, where the dark shades of the spruce merge with vivid linden leaves. Everything looks lush, soaked and green. Wild rivers flow down the valley, with the most turquoise among them – the Soča river. Your day is filled to the brim with adventures and activities, but suddenly a strained jazz chant is heard from the depths of your stomach – foooood. This time, we are taking you on a local treat. What are the region’s specialities, what is the story behind them, and where best to taste them? Answers will be served slowly, in good company and with mouthwatering adjectives.
Sustainability isn’t just a buzzword in the Soča valley
To understand the culinary story of the Soča Valley, put your hiking boots on and head for the mountains. The smell of earth, forest, mowed meadows, milk, cottage cheese and cheese permeates the air. The cookbook of local recipes has always been written according to the dictates of a wonderfully wild but witty nature. In addition to the demanding natural terrain, there was constant tension on this tiny piece of land! Wars, clashes of cultures, and regular border shifts strengthened the unique local character and seasoned the local cuisine.
Secrets from the local kitchen
Hats off. To whom? To grandmothers, nonnas, those sweet old women in colorful aprons who use their fingers to conjure delicious dishes from modest ingredients. Frika, a crispy Alpine pizza made from potatoes and Tolmin cheese, fermented curd that sizzles and mmmm, those sweet, warm dumplings that melt in your mouth. The feeling? Homely, honest, generous and heartfelt – just like that good old granny’s hug that comforts even the most bitter soul out there.
These old recipes were whispered from one ear to another, all the way till now. Still today, every house preserves and protects its kitchen secrets with exceptional sensitivity and pride. Due to this sparkling recipe rivalry, the culinary tradition in the Soča valley is still very much alive! Once shepherd dishes are served in almost every restaurant, bistro, on tourist farms, in mountain huts, and at festivals. Our advice? Come hungry.
In the Soča valley, every cow has a name
Cheese is integrated deep into the hearts of the Soča valley locals. But as Anka Lipušček Miklavič, a farmer and former CEO of the local Planika dairy industry, says, the path to a wheel of cheese begins at the cow’s muzzle. The Soča valley is the land of brown cow – cika, the strong, rugged and mountaineer type of cow. Every spring, the brown cikas and shepherds roam up to the mountain meadows, up to 1400 m high. Cows graze around the pristine mountain meadows for months. Far from the hustle and bustle of the valley, they happily munch on the fresh spring grass strewn with flowers and seasoned with herbs.
Just like nature and people, the animals in Posočje have their own personas and even their own names. Spend the day in the wonderful company of Cikas, Šekas and Pikas at the Bogata organic estate in Bovec. Experience the millennial tradition and heritage of milk and cheese making in the Posočje region and enjoy the Alpine views with that lovely piece of cheese in your mouth.
Drežnica, where are the goats?
“Cin, cin, cin Drežnica, where are the goats” is the first line of a well-known Slovenian children’s song dedicated to the fairytale mountain village of Drežnica and its goats. These upright, temperamental, even a bit micaceous goats are the only true Slovenian autochthonous breed. Drežnica goats are mountain acclimatized, have long hooked horns, bushy fur, a challenging look and a dramatic story. The goat was a thorn in the side of various political systems. For example, in Yugoslavia, a decree was issued in which the authorities demanded the shooting of Drežnica goats. These gluttons were accused of causing too much damage to the forests. To save them from a cruel fate, the people of Drežnica crammed all their goats into the village church (Roš, 2020, p. 125).
Today only about 600 of them are left, and 40 goats are jumping around Berginc Farm. At the Berginc farm, you can try young or mature goat cheese, goat yoghurt and cottage cheese. Before leaving, the Kobarid part of the valley, don’t forget to try a local dessert – Kobariški štruklji (Kobarid dumplings).
Sheep, mushrooms, trout and sweet pockets
Bovec is home to autochthonous, or indigenous, Bovec sheep. Also these sheep are proper climbers and are well adjusted to pasture on steep surfaces, where the most succulent grass grows. Therefore, their milk has a unique taste and is an excellent base for spicy cottage cheese. Its sharp taste is best combined with boiled potatoes. This extremely simple shepherd’s dish, also known as čompe an skuta, is a Bovec’s favorite. If you want to try it, get in line in front of the little wooden house on the Bovec’s main square.
Father Bojan and daughter Anja are head chefs in Bovška Kuhnca stand. They serve you the Alps, the river, pastures and forests. Frika with sheep’s cheese, mushroom stew, trout from the surrounding rivers, potatoes with cottage cheese, lamb…
Everything is made from local ingredients and according to a traditional recipe. For dessert, try Buški krafi, little dough pockets stuffed with pear filling. Paula, the witty Paulačinka owner from the neighboring stand, is the best krafi maker in town.
Modern twists on local ingredients
Times are changing, and so is the cuisine. You can visit the valley’s best Michelin-starred Hiša Franko, the eco-tourist farms and mountain huts, or enjoy your time in atmosphere-filled osterias. The choice is broad, so we have another delicious surprise to make it easier. In the picturesque village Log pod Mangartom lays an old wooden cabin, Brunarica.
Summer is around the corner, and it smells like barbecue. Slovenia does not hold a big BBQ tradition. Yes, we have grills. There are also those special grill talents who proudly and passionately take responsibility for preparing čevapčiči at all family picnics. Cooking over fire seems simple. But bringing the meat to perfection takes long hours of sizzling, and that, let’s be honest, is not in our Slovene grill DNA.
The modernized romance of the barbecue and the inevitable socializing that goes with it has become a part of the Posočje region. In Brunarica, Robin Hill and his team serve you slowly smoked local meat, rich salads full of seasonal treats, burgers, and homemade desserts. In this small kitchen, local ingredients collide with the modern world. The house, the atmosphere, and the menu – everything sounds and looks extremely simple. Simple are the expectations, but once a plate is placed under your nose, you are amazed. Presentation – perfect. Taste – amazing. Don’t worry; not everything is about meat. Brunarica also prepares delicious vegan options.
At this point, we better put down our utensils, as we could go on and on. These are just a few crumbs from Soča valley’s delights, just enough to tickle your taste buds and turn you into a local culinary explorer.
See you in Slovenia!
Slovenia is a destination that truly satisfies all needs, wishes and whims. Whether you’re heading for a rest and reboot, an active adventure, a cultural excursion, or a solid mix of everything, Slovenia is the right choice for you.
An adventure, wellness and cultural immersion trip through Slovenia is unique precisely because of its balance. Join us on an unforgettable AdZENture Retreat in the Soča Valley. Get to know Slovenia and the Soča Valley through unforgettable and authentic adventures!